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Tiles bring charm to beauty of dwelling. These tiles are available for every portion including kitchen, wall, bathroom, and bedroom etc. Now-a-days wall tiles are in trend. People are installing them on their walls to relieve themselves from the hassle of painting the house after a regular period of time. These are very easy to install as well as remove.

Though, they need a professional still the cost is very less as compared to the painting. Most of the people think that the shine and charm of it doesn’t remain long lasting. While the truth is if proper maintenance as well as attention is paid, the shine can remain long lasting. Now, what actually comes in tile maintenance is proper cleaning.

This cleaning is also necessary for hygiene purpose. Suppose these tiles are installed in your kitchen then you should keep it clean to make that place germs free. This type of cleaning comes under the category of hard surface cleaning. Doing it is not ke chu thap a big deal, especially now when we have plethora of cleaning agents and liquids.

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This simple guide outlines the basic principles of fitting and maintaining natural slate stone flooring tiles, but does not constitute a fully in depth document due to the extensiveness of this topic. We have attempted to present 'best practice' when installing natural slate flooring products to achieve the desired affect, whether a seasoned professional or an absolute beginner.

For more detailed technical reports, reference can be made to British Standard BS5385 1994 Wall and Floor Tiling.

Remember to read carefully the manufacturer's instructions on any packages of adhesives, grouts and sealants.

Please follow the golden rule of tiling and keep everything meticulously clean and dry.

SUBFLOOR

The solidity of the subfloor onto which tiles are intended to be laid, must be suitable for the purpose intended. The floors' surface must be level, dry, clean and free of any dust, grease or loose material. This is for both interior and exterior floors.

Sand & Cement Screed

When installing onto sand and cement screed, each 20-30mm of screed takes approximately 1 week to dry properly or longer if adverse weather conditions prevail. Fresh screed will shrink during drying which can create cracks. This may cause tile splitting if not properly dry prior to installation.

Timber Floors

Timber floors if suspended, must not flex and the extra load weight of the natural stone tiles must be accounted for. The most common method of preventing movement would be to affix 18mm WBP plywood over the floor and screw down firmly at 140mm intervals.

A flexible adhesive and grout must be used when fixing onto timber floors.

Internal installation onto existing Glazed, Clay, Stone, Vinyl, Linoleum etc.

In a perfect world all floor coverings and adhesives will have previously been taken up and surfaces properly cleaned, but if this is not the case and existing flooring is in good repair, then natural stone tiles may be fixed over the existing flooring subject to all grease residues being removed.

Cork & Wooden Existing Flooring

Cork and wooden flooring should be fully removed. Any bitumen left on the floor should also be removed.

Damp

Before installation, damp proof membranes should be checked for existence or effectiveness and installed or replaced if necessary.

Unleveled Floors

A floor with minor bumps and hollows can be leveled by applying more or less adhesive to the underside of individual tiles during installation. In the case of a very uneven floor, a leveling compound should be used.

Underfloor Heating

It is possible to lay natural slate stone tiles in situations where underfloor heating is utilized.

PLANNING

It is advisable to plan your tiling from the corner furthest from the primary entrance. To obtain the center line, measure and mark the middle of opposing walls AB and CD. Join these points with string to locate the center point.

From the midpoint of the center line lay down tiles without fixing them, allowing for joints, to see where the last whole tile will end. Mark a line at a right angle alongside the last whole tile. Locate starting point along the new line in the same way as before to see where the last tile will end.

Now mark the sideline at a right angle alongside the last whole tile. Now check that the line comprises of a perfect right angle, and that the sideline runs parallel to the center line.

Grout Joints

According to personal taste, this ke can bang be between 5mm and 10mm.

FIXING

Make sure tiles and sub floor are clean and dry.

It is recommended that a PVA bonding agent is applied to cement screed floors, or an acrylic bonding agent is applied to timber floors.

If you liked this posting and you would like to acquire much more data about ke nhua dau cong kindly check out the website. Mix Tile Adhesive or Rapid Set Adhesive, making sure that only sufficient is mixed for use, as unused material should be discarded. Do not add further water.

Apply adhesive to a floor area of around 1m² using a notched trowel. Do not exceed more than 6mm depth of adhesive.

Do not screed more adhesive than can be tiled in 20 minutes.

Fix in starting position (see planning) and press tiles firmly into place. All tiles should be firmly pushed down allowing no space for air underneath.

Place the next tile adjacent, and so on, allowing for grouting space.

Clean any adhesive from the surface of the tile with a clean damp cloth as soon as possible.

Set adhesive will prove very difficult to remove.

Clean all tools immediately after use.

Once the main area is completed prepare the perimeter and adhere pre-cut tiles, as long as the adhesive is adequately cured.

The adhesive must be given a minimum of 24 hours to dry, or in accordance with manufacturer's instructions, prior to sealing and grouting.

CUTTING

A flat bedded diamond cutter (water fed) is required for the cutting of all natural slate stone tiles (available at nation-wide Hire Centers). The correct cutting blade must be used & this will depend on the type of stone being used. (Advise the hire center).

This process will necessitate the re-cleaning of the tile, as dust is unavoidable.

GROUTING

Internal & External

Before grouting all adhesive must have dried properly. Normal drying time is 12-24 hours, unless fast set adhesive is used then a drying time of 4 hours is normally adequate. Thicker beds of adhesive and cooler temperatures will all slow down the drying times. Make sure all joints are clean and dry.

When adhesive has set, clean the floor by very lightly wiping it with a large sponge to remove any dust that will inevitably be on the tiles. Do not soak the floor with water. The floor must be fully dried before any sealer can be applied to the floor.

We recommend the floor be left for as long as possible to dry to ensure the tiles have fully dried out, to prevent any moisture being sealed in during the sealing process.

A layer of a recommended SLATE PROTECTOR, (Please call for our advise if unsure), this will vary according to the product being laid & should be applied with a small sponge roller, this will act as an impregnator and stop the grout from staining the tiles.

One coat should be applied depending on the porosity of the slate.

Leave to dry for 30 — 60 minutes or until fully dried before grouting.

This undercoat treatment absorbs into the slate reducing its porosity, helping to protect against staining.

We advise the joints to be filled by a spreading or 'slurry process'. The tile surface must be kept as clean as possible.

Grout must be pushed down firmly and all joints well filled, as no air should be allowed to remain in the joints. The more grout used means it will set harder. It is essential that excess grout is removed with a damp cloth or sponge continually.

Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.

After grouting, ensure that the floor is both perfectly clean and dry.

To clean off any really stubborn grout residues, which may be particularly difficult to remove from highly textured slate, cement & lime film remover should be used. Please call us for advice as it will affect the appearance if the wrong remover is applied. (Very important).

The overall strength of the floor is dependent on the quality of grouting, which must support all the tile edges.

SEALING

Natural slate stone tiles are virtually maintenance free when sealed correctly. It is strongly recommended that all natural stone floorings are sealed and allowed to dry before use.

Prior to sealing ensure that all areas are clean and dry otherwise dirt and damp will be sealed in.

Apply the recommended SEALANT 24 hours after grouting and apply using a small Sponge Roller. Do not pour sealant on, an even spread will create a better appearance.

It is advised to work on an area of 1m² at a time.

We suggest 1 application depending on porosity of the slate. Leave to dry for approximately 2 hours.

Repeat the application if required. Leave to dry for approximately 24 hours depending on room temperatures.

Exterior Installation

Natural stone tiles are porous hence when laid outside there is a risk that moisture will be absorbed and the tiles may be susceptible to frost damage if extremely cold temperature persists. By using the correct sealer the risk of damage is minimized.

MAINTENANCE

The above sealants protect the slate by forming a barrier against dirt and stains but are not a stain proofing system.

All Sealer's on the market will usually protect stone flooring for between 4 — 8 hours, It is vital that acidic liquids/foodstuffs be wiped up straight away, i.e. Red Wine, Orange juice, Vinegar, Oils, Tea, Coffee, otherwise they may stain the floor.

It is vital that the protection is maintained. Harsh cleaners will erode the finish and should not be used.

The appropriate recommended MAINTENANCE CLEANER will both clean and prolong the life of the protective surface finish applied.

We recommend the floor be cleaned with a light brush & not a Hoover as this may scratch the surface of the tiles & we also recommend the floor be mopped once a month depending on the foot traffic.

When mopping try to clean out the mop bucket as often as possible as highly textured slate will hold dirt & grime more than any smooth finished products.

The cleaner the water, the better the appearance of the floor in the long run.

If the recommended floor-cleaning products are used then this will help you achieve the best looking floor and also keep the floor looking beautiful for years

Buying and sourcing reclaimed tiles

Check with your neighbours if they have any spare tiles. To find more info on ke op lat have a look at our own web site. Look out for construction and renovation work in the surrounding area. Similar local period properties will likely have the same or similar designs tiet kiem vat lieu xay dung and may have spares available, due to modifications and construction work.

Salvage yards reclamation and specialist restoration companies all will tend to hold stock of salvaged originals as these are preferred over modern replacements for repairs. Once you find a source, send details of what you're looking for in advance to avoid wasting time. You may not find all the colours and shapes required and invariably you will have to mix old and new, try to maximize old where possible. Colour matching your existing tiles can be done easily if you have some loose tiles as samples. If not then images and photographs for reference are helpful along with sizes. Remember original tiles tend to me imperial in size as opposed to metric.

When buying Salvaged tiles make sure they are ideally free of mortar on the back and the sides of the tiles. To remove mortar form the underside is messy and time consuming and something that a specialist should undertake, whilst the removal of grout is easier and can be done with for example with a paint scraper (a sharp blade with a handle).

Try to ensure the tiles have been salvaged from an interior floor as in general they will be in better condition. Avoid dished tiles or tiles that seem too porous.

When using salvaged tiles, the base on which they are fixed will need to be lowered or the tile thinned to allow for a neat level finish as space will be required for thin set mortar. Old geometric tiles tend to be approximately 12 mm thick and were laid directly onto wet cement or a lime based mortar. In which case, when they become dislodged they cannot be simply stuck back down using an adhesive as they will sit proud of the surrounding tiles.

Repairs can also be carried out with modern matching replacements. Important factors here are the ke chu thap size and the colour. There are limited number of manufactures of reproduction tiles but within these ranges are very good colours that can bought in varying sizes for repairs.

Tiles can also be sourced through various online classified ad websites.

Buying new tiles

Most suitable modern replacement tiles are now metric in size and are usually 9-10 mm thick. They are known as dust pressed tiles with the colour running throughout the body of the tile.

There are available ranges, some with 25 colours that encompass both traditional and contemporary shades. Colours can vary very slightly between factory production runs but generally remain very consistent. The tiles in the affordable ranges are approximately 9mm thick.

Apart from a very subtle difference in size and colour the modern ranges are the closest available to the original system of ceramic dust pressed pre-moulded Victorian tiles.

Some reproduction Victorian Floor Tile ranges feature tiles with square edges that have been pre moulded so that they can be closely assembled to recreate an accurate and authentic look. The tiles are arranged individually to create the field and border requiring minimal cutting.

Original Victorian Tiled floors were based on the Imperial system. All of the geometric components featured in most modern ranges are based on the metric system. If the tiles are required in Imperial measurements then in nearly all cases the tile will need to be cut from a larger tile.

With geometric style Victorian pre moulded tiles the design possibilities are infinite and the traditional layouts range from very simple black and white chequerboards to highly elaborate complex layouts featuring Decorative Encaustic tiles.

These modern ranges now offer the possibility of recreating entire matching designs with authentic detail as well as providing a good range of colours for repair work. One very important point here is that the modern tiles, being thinner than the originals are much easier to use for minor repairs as they allow space for the adhesive when dropping in tiles next to the existing originals.

Useful advice on having restoration work carried out

Check the credentials of fitter ensure they have undertaken training and previous work of a similar type.

Check the proposed colours for repairs.

Work is usually gradual so you can quickly review the tilers progress and skill.

Insist on minimal grout lines for authentic look.

Remember a final clean reduces the appearance of any areas that have been repaired as colours will brighten significantly.

Useful advice on having new tiles installed

If buying tiles in a loose format ensure that the fitter has experience of fitting traditional designs especially if they are complex. Sheeted tiles are now available through some companies broadening the possibility of employing a good qualified tiler to fit a complex design.

Try to request a diagram of the planned design.

Ensure that all fixing specifications are provided detailing for example the type of adhesive and grout that is used.

Always ensure that the base on which the tiles are to be fixed is solid, smooth and has been checked buy the tiler.

General care and maintenance of exterior tile schemes

Try to clean at least once a month by removing organic matter such as leaves.

Check that the grout lines are full and replenish if necessary, this will minimise water penetration and subsequent damage.

For a deep clean to remove the build-up of dirt use patio cleaner in a dilute format and wash immediately to neutralise. This treatment is more suited to the maintenance of new installations.

If you have any other concerns then consult a specialist.

Why and where are Victorian Floor tiles preferable to other types of flooring?

Reasons to install a new mosaic feature/ Geometric Victorian Floor Tiles

Practical, hard wearing and easy to maintain

Decorative and aesthetically pleasing

Hardwearing and long-lasting

In keep with period architecture.

Adds and retains value to a property

Suitable applications for new installations

Halls, paths and porches

Conservatories, bathrooms and kitchens

Shop fronts and retail areas

Garden features

Adaptable addition to architectural or interior design schemes